National Museum of American History Displays Rare Luxury 19th-Century Silk Quilts

Inspired by the availability of inexpensive silks, a new fad emerged nationwide in the 1880s for ‘crazy patchwork’ quilts. Quilt makers adopted asymmetry and layered patterning, moving away from the rigid geometric piecework of traditional quilts. Silk embroidery added dimensions and texture to the quilts. These quilts were never meant to be used as bedding. Instead, they were a statement of status and style at the turn of the 20th century. They tell a little-known story of art, industry, trends and marketing in American history.

“The quilts on display demonstrate individual imagination and skill,” said exhibition curator, Madelyn Shaw. “But beyond that, they represent America’s silk industry: thousands of mill workers, hundreds of companies, business people and designers. The quilts offer us a unique perspective on this period of industrialization in American history.”

Silk is the continuous filament a silkworm makes to create its cocoon. About 3,000 cocoons make one pound of raw silk. To turn silk filaments into yarn, cocoons are placed in simmering water to dissolve the gummy substance binding the fibers together. A worker (reeler) whisks up the ends of several filaments and draws them off the cocoons together, forming a very fine thread called “raw silk.” A process called “throwing” combines several raw silk strands into yarns strong enough for sewing, embroidery, weaving and knitting. American yarn and fabric manufacturers bought cocoons and raw silk primarily from Japan, China and Italy.

Personal sewing kits, needlework books, tools, embroidery samples, models of silkworms and educational posters will be on view in the gallery. The nine quilts on display include Mary Watson’s “Biscuit” Parlor Throw, 1890–1900; Eva Shaw’s Crazy-patch Piano Cover, 1880–1890; Laura Clark’s Silk Patchwork Table Cover, 1855–1885; Martha Jane Taylor’s Parlor Throw, 1870–1880; a Commemorative Ribbon Parlor Throw, 1880–1895; a Crazy-patchwork Parlor Throw, 1880–1900; Aimee Hodge’s Crazy-patchwork Parlor Throw, 1877–1946; the Bates Family Crazy-patchwork Silk Parlor Throw, 1890–1900; and Marian Frick’s Log Cabin Parlor Throw, 1870–1890.

The National Quilt Collection now numbers more than 500 quilts and quilt-related items. Most of the collection is accessible online at https://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/object-groups/national-quilt-collection.

Through incomparable collections, rigorous research and dynamic public outreach, the National Museum of American History explores the infinite richness and complexity of American history. It helps people understand the past in order to make sense of the present and shape a more informed future. The museum is located on Constitution Avenue N.W., between 12th and 14th streets, and is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. (closed Dec. 25). Admission is free. For more information, visit http://americanhistory.si.edu. For Smithsonian information, the public may call (202) 633-1000.